Sea day - February 29

Seoul, South Korea - February 28

this is a switch!

1 degree, SNOW!!!!!

Today was full of wonderful and amazing things and at least one shocking thing – SNOW!!! I knew the temperatures would be in the single plus digits on this trip and brought clothes for the weather, but snow…I didn’t expect that. Apparently this was the first snow in Seoul (or the first significant snow fall – I couldn’t quite understand) for 5 years.

The first interesting thing today was going through a lock to get to the harbour for the port of Inchon, Korea (the port for Seoul.) We’ve gone through many locks on river cruises which I’ve never tired of, but I’m quite certain we’ve never been through any on an ocean cruise ship. Again it was very interesting. I was out early watching and taking photos of the action on the balcony and knew it was chilly – I’d have said around 5 degrees.  

Today’s tour was one we were really looking forward to – visiting the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) separating North and South Korea. From the port we drove about an hour before we arrived at the ‘Freedom Bridge’, which crosses the Injin River connecting North and South Korea. Thousands of North Koreans crossed this bridge to freedom at the end of the Korean War. This was a very brief stop to buy tickets to the actual DMZ site. Apparently only large buses are allowed to the DMZ, if someone wanted to go on their own they would park at this site and take another bus – because we had our own bus we didn’t have to do this. This spot was a bit of an amusement park, complete with rides – odd.

birthday beer

On the road to the DMZ a soldier got on our bus to check out passports - this happened to us once before in India. Apparently the ship had to provide our names, nationalities and passport numbers in advance. Along the winding road to the DMZ site there were land mine signs all along the way…this place is no joke. The DMZ is an area between North and South Korea that is essentially along the 38^th parallel. It is 2 km wide on both sides and runs the width of the Korean peninsula.

Korean Starbucks on a traditional shopping street

First we watched a 10 minute film about the history of the DMZ – it was weird. Then we had to lock up all of our bags, cameras (no photos allowed) etc., don hardhats and board a tram to transport us to the ‘Third Tunnel’ – third because it is the one discovered third, there are 4 tunnels discovered all together the last being discovered in 1990.

The tram took us 70 meters underground along 300 meters to the actual 3^rd Tunnel. Once we got to the 3^rd Tunnel we walked for about 250 meters in the Tunnel. It was about 2 meters tall and 2 meters wide, but varied at points which is why we wore hardhats – people were banging their heads all along the way.

land mine warnings

Once we got to the end of the Tunnel we were able to see the Demarcation Line between the 2 sides of the DMZ and essentially to North Korea. There was very little to see through a small hole, but essentially we saw what is North Korea. These tunnels were designed by North Korea for a surprise attacks on Seoul. Apparently there were designed so that 30,000 soldiers and their equipment could get to Seoul an hour. We could still see the holes used to put dynamite into along the walls. When we emerged from the Tunnel is was SNOWING!

white space - exactly what we could seen of N Korea

Next, you made a very quick stop at the Dora Observatory where if it were a clear day we could have seen across the border to a North Korean propaganda village – it was not clear. We could hear however the North Korea broadcasted propaganda. There are a ton of soldiers here (male only), according to the guide most are around 20 years old – that’s how old they seemed.

By this time it was about 2:00 and I was starving – I typically bring a mid-morning snack, but Korea doesn’t approve. Lunch was a traditional Korean meal of bulgogi – Korean beef. While by no means a Korean food expert, I thought bulgogi was BBQed, this was more like a soup with beef and mushrooms. Regardless it was very good. We also had Korean ‘pizza’ which was more like an omelet or thin frittata.

Then we had some time on a traditional shopping street which very few of us on the tour were interested in due to the weather. We did what we usually do during shopping times…find a beer. We were however, able to find the one of only 2 Starbucks with other than English writing – apparently some people in Seoul weren’t interested in having Starbucks on this traditional street and they came to an agreement with Starbucks.

passport check

Freedom Bridge

We expected after returning to the ship that that would be the excitement for the day…nope…the most fun I had all day was talking to the staff about the snow. For many, many of them this was the first time they had ever seen snow! It was thrilling to hear their excitement and see their photos. One waiter we chatted with put boxes on his feet and went for a walk – I’m not quite sure why he used boxes…I know he had shoes…who knows. One guy said he had seen it on the ground when working a cruise in Alaska, but never saw it fall. It was falling in big fluffy flakes. Apparently they were having a ball in the snow on the pool deck – I would have loved to have seen it!

going through the lock (before the snow)

So then, we thought for sure the excitement surely would have been over…nope. We arrived back to our room to a few Happy Birthday decorations and a small cake for Chris’ birthday. Our butler Vino knew it was Chris’ birthday and although Chris told him a cake was the last thing he needed, he got one. It was a very nice gesture.

Good thing tomorrow is a sea day…we need a day to recover from all of this excitement!  It was a great, great day!

Jeju Island, South Korea - February 27

Sangumburi Crater

10 degrees, overcast

We woke up to rain, but by the time we set out the rain had stopped. Cold I can deal with, but getting wet is hard to avoid. Jeju is an island off of the south west coast of South Korea.

Manjanggul Lava Tube

getting into the lava tube

Our first stop on our morning excursion is to Sangumburi Crater. There is a park (like a national or provincial park at home) built to showcase the crater that is extremely well done and lovely. There are some paved paths and lots of interpretive signs to add to what we learned from our guide. We hike up to the edge of the crater to view it from above. There are also ancient burial tombs at this site. We don’t have nearly enough time to hike all of the trails which would have been a nice thing to do.

tombs at the crater

Next we visit the Manjanggul Lava Cave. This is an underground tube made by a lava flow. There are about 200 steps to get into the tube and then we walked for the kilometer into the 8km tube that is available to visitors. This place is wet and dark and about 10 degrees.

Both of the places we visited today were very different from places we’ve visited recently.

We were back on the boat for lunch and an early afternoon sailing to Seoul.

Today was the first time I’ve ever going through passport control anywhere where everyone is photographed and fingerprinted.

At sea, East China Sea - February 26

9 degrees, sunny

Although it was a cool day I actually took a nap on our balcony. I definitely had a blanket, but sheltered from the wind in the sun was quite nice. Eventually the sun or maybe it was the boat moved and I woke up a bit chilly! Good thing my bed was a few steps away.

not sure if this little boat will tug us anywhere

This pic is of Chris and me with bookend drinks. He has a Singapore Sling and I have a Japanese Martini – where we started this trip to where we will end.

The sea was super smooth last night and today. In the night I actually questioned whether or not we were sailing - no gurgley stomach this sea day.

Shanghai, China - February 25

People's Square

our ship can be seen

 12sh, sunny, not nearly as chilly as yesterday

apartment after apartment

It was a glorious day as we set off for a morning of sightseeing. It was cool, but clear and sunny.

Our first stop was at Shanghai’s People’s Square – an urban park around a central fountain. This place is immaculate with manicured flower beds and clean walkways – and a noticeable amount of security and police. After a 20 minutes to stroll and take pictures that was about it.

random huge towers

The next part of our tour took us to Shanghai’s desirable neighborhoods with European-style early, 20th century mansions – interesting to see in China. We probably drove around for about an hour just looking and looking. Until we did all of this driving the city didn’t seem like there were 24 million people living here – now I can see where some of the 24 million live. There are apartment buildings, upon apartment buildings for as far as the eye could see – it was incredible.

Oriental Pearl Tower

Then we arrived at base of all of the skyscrapers. It is a bit mind blowing how many sparkling, shiny, huge, interesting skyscrapers there were – most we are told are less than 10 years old. We stopped for a bit outside the Oriental Pearl Tower for some photos – I couldn’t even get it all in my photo it is so tall. Then we went up the Jin Mao Building (the second tallest in China) to its observation deck on the 88^th floor. It’s here at the top of Shanghai that I get a clue as to how huge this place is and how many people live here. This building also has a Hyatt Hotel on the 20 floors right below the observation level. I find the idea of hotels, office buildings and residences very interesting.

Many, many things amazed my today…first the vastness of this place and second how many police and security there is. There are what look like ATCO-trailers for police on what looks like every corner and it’s impossible to not see a police officer or security guard. I guess there’s a lot of people to put to work here. It also seems like many people are employed at keeping Shanghai looking good – there are planters everywhere and absolutely no garbage. What I’ve seen of Shanghai is as clean as Singapore.

the lobby of the Hyatt from above

Of the many, many things I saw today I didn’t see what looked like poverty. There were a few slum-like areas, but absolutely no begging or people that looked impoverished. These were things that seemed unavoidable in most places we’ve visited, but not here. I can’t imagine poverty doesn’t exist in China…they’ve just done a good job concealing it.

As the day went on the sky got hazier and hazier – I assume it’s pollution, but my throat doesn’t feel it. Occasionally on this trip I’ve felt that I’m getting sick…nope…pollution.

Sheryl – if I’d known bars in Saskatchewan were so capable, I’d have checked some out before now, that’ll be my next trip!!

Shanghai China - February 24

dumplings with straws

10ish, windy, sunny, but brrrrrrr

Today was the first time in a while that we’ve seen the sun. However…it was chilly! It’s funny how it seems like just a minute ago that I was melting in the heat and humidity and today I wished I had brought my toque and gloves with me on the tour. Anyway…I will NEVER complain about the cold – I’ll comment on it but NEVER complain!

After a leisurely morning and lunch on board, our tour first stopped at the Shanghai Museum. Here we saw Chinese porcelain, coins, furniture, jade, pottery, masks, clothing, and calligraphy. It was very interesting, the most interesting thing I learned was that the holes in ancient Chinese coins were square because the Chinese regarded the sun and heaven as round and the earth as square. The round is on the outside because the sun and heaven was regarded as bigger than the earth.

Next we visited Yu Garden. This place built in the 1500s is a complex housing a temple, beautiful rocks, ponds, pavilions all connected by zig, zagging (so the demons don’t get you) paths and bridges.

Our last visit today was Shanghai’s Old Town which was the centre of Shanghai centuries ago. Our guide told us this was the first China Town, which I don’t actually get The Old Town actually is where the Yu Garden is. Like many other old towns, there are shops, narrow alleys, hawkers and a lot of people. This is the first place so far in Asia where we were approached for ‘pst…watches…pst…bags’.

We only bought a beer, which in itself was an adventure. There weren’t many place to get a beer in fact this was the only place I saw beer, so where we found one was in a sort of food court. There was absolutely NO letters I recognized so I could read NOTHING, but I saw a bottle of beer and pointed. We had to pay for it at one spot and then bring our receipt to where the beer was, which I also didn’t understand at first…we figured it out. The bottle of beer was drank came from a box on the floor, so wasn’t exactly cold – not a big deal on this chilly day. 600 mLs for about 3.00 Canadian.

There was some pretty interesting food in food stalls. The more interesting was a dumpling that people drank out of with a straw. Apparently there is ground pork and other typical dumpling filling, but there’s also broth…hence the straw. No, I didn’t get one.

Checked out Starbucks…latte – 6.00 Canadian.

We decided to walk from the ship to the pedestrian boardwalk area of Shanghai after dinner hoping to find a spot for a beer. Unfortunately, we had no luck. We did however stroll around the boardwalk that was across from all of Shanghai’s skyscrapers which was interesting.

The ship couldn't be docked in a better place. Shanghai isn't on the coast, but on the Yangtze River about 60 miles from the East China Sea. The ship is able to sail all the way to the heart of Shanghai. Our ship is docked right across the Yangtze from the Oriental Pearl Tower and the other Shanghai skyscrapers. This means no long bus rides just to get to the city. The Apparently Shanghai is the third busiest container port in the world. 24 million people call Shanghai home which makes it the largest city-proper in the world. 

This ship and the Oriental Pearl

At sea - February 23

Once again, a sea day means nothing exciting to report. A bit of rough seas, means even less activity, especially when my stomach isn't responding to the rolling seas too well.

Xiamen, China - February 22

warming up

15ish, cloudy

The title of today’s tour is “A Taste of Local Life in Xiamen”, in the end that sounds about right.

street squid

The first thing we do is go for a bike ride. Much of yesterday’s tour took us along Xiamen’s seaside road where I noticed many people riding bikes or strolling along. This is what we did first thing this morning. I can’t remember the last time I rode a bike was, but I still seem to remember how. We ride along the seaside on our own for about half an hour stopping every so often to check out this or that or just.

A Tai Chi class is our next activity to taste Xiamen. The location of this class was half of the charm of it as it was right off of the beach. First each of the instructors demonstrated what seemed to be like routines and then the tried to teach us. It was a lot of fun. Much of the fun of this was because the instructors were as interested in us as we were in them. Again, I don’t think they see many western tourists – they were taking as many pictures of us as we were of them.

Next we were back to the tea lesson we had last night. Because many people had done this last night, we were given the option of strolling along the beach – we decided on the tea. It was only 30 minutes and we learned new things we weren’t told last night. We also tried a green bean cake. This was quite good – sweet, mild and not very ‘green bean’ at all, the name’s the worst part.

Our last stop was at a pedestrian shopping area. The most interesting part of this area was the food stall area. Once again squid is all the rage. Squid of all kinds were for sale. I think if we had money we would have actually bought a deep-fried squid on a stick. There wasn’t a money exchange place ANYWHERE. There was one in the cruise terminal, but of course it was closed each time we were there until AFTER today’s tour. This only makes me think they really don’t get many non-Chinese tourists. Each of these stalls had a guy in front where customers would line up exchanging money for an empty food container. Then the customer would give the container to the guy making the food, no money was given to the cooks - interesting.

When we were in Taiwan I mentioned I bought oyster omelet chips. Well…I learned today that oyster omelets are a very popular food here. The guide told us about them and I saw a few stalls making them – again…interesting.

giant oysters with pearls

I have to say, none of the food has yet looked too ‘unusual’. I’m still waiting…expecting some wild looking food. I think it will be for looking only!

Something that was also interesting were pearl stores. These stores were full of everything pearl, including the oysters that they came from. I know next to nothing about pearls and the oysters they come from, but was under the impression that one pearl came from one oyster…not here. The oysters are HUGE, like dinner plate size and each oyster seemed to house 20 or so pearls - wow.

Xiamen, China - February 21

15ish, cloudy

We were rocking and rolling for most of the night. I was surprised it didn’t bother me a bit, I noticed it, but it didn’t keep me up. This however, made our arrival in Xiamen a bit late. Because of our late arrival we departed late for our tours. However much I like being off on tour early and back early, this morning on the boat was nice.

Chinese railway workers in Canada

This is the first port where we have to go through face-to-face immigration. Typically the ship takes care of all immigration and we just walk off of the boat. Then we got copies of our passports stamped and these had to be shown every time we left and returned to the ship – sometimes multiply times. Not at all a big deal, but unusual.

The tour started with a short visit to the Chinese Overseas Museum. This museum was very interesting as it depicted Chinese living today and in this past in other parts of the world. As it turns out, Canada’s percentage of Chinese immigrants is high compared to other parts of the world.

Next is a visit to the more than 1000 year old South Putuo Temple. This place is very cool as it has been built where the land quickly turns into rocky hills. Once we see most of the buildings each a bit higher than the last, there are small paths and stairs carved into the rock, so that we can wind our way up the hill. We don’t make it anywhere near the top as our time is limited. Along the way there are small shrines with a TON of small Buddhas that seem to have been placed there by people. It seems as though each of the temples we visit have some common elements and some very different ones. One thing that is unique about this temple is that there are Chinese characters carved and into the rock and then painted. This place is full of people although are group seems to be the only white people here. I get the feeling that Xiamen doesn’t get a lot of Western tourists…we are stared at a bit.

Next we are taken to a tea ceremony where we learn about and taste different tea varieties and the proper way to make tea.

By the time we get back to the boat it is about 8:00. Our original plan was to go out after dinner as we are over-nighting here. Unfortunately that doesn’t work as the Chinese immigration people don’t work between midnight and 6 AM. We’d have to be back before midnight and didn’t think that would work.