Tuesday, 10 June 2025

June 10 – Luanda, Angola

Weather – 26º, very overcast, so overcast that it looked like a cloudy winter day in Calgary, the haze burned off around 11, apparently the weather is like this every day

Steps – 5,302

Humidity – 76%

Country #96!

I’m not sure I could have pointed to Angola on a map before planning this vacation, or even known it was in Africa. I know now.


Angola (pop: 37 mil) is a former Portuguese colony (gained independence in 1975), so the main language is Portuguese, it is the second largest Portuguese speaking country, second is Brazil. Angola is Africa’s second largest oil producer, first is Nigeria. Our tour today is of the capital city, Luanda – pop: 10 mil.

today's geography lesson

a local woman


Yesterday, we received a letter from the ship, encouraging us to temper our expectations. We already had, having been to underdeveloped parts of the world before, but I can’t actually remember getting a letter to this effect. I was ready…Luanda pleasantly surprised me.


The first thing I was pleasantly surprised by was the bus. It was a small coach type bus with working mic and AC! We were told specifically to NOT expect

welcoming committee

these, so I was delighted. Chris and I were both able to have our own seats, due to the bus not being too full – another pleasant surprise.

kids' basketball team


Our tour today was titled: “Panoramic Luanda” – translation…mostly on the bus with a few photo stops…this is exactly what it was. Luanda has little for tourist infrastructure, so there weren’t many options for tours. Panoramic tours are very good for getting a taste of a place.

Church of Our Lady of Nazareth

Even just driving the streets is super interesting – you get to see locals going about their daily lives.


The other tour options were ‘beach break’ which would actually have been an opportunity for some local beer and snacks (which we sadly didn’t get a chance for), but having never been here before, we wanted a glimpse of the city.


Our first stop was at the Church of Our Lady of Nazareth, a 17th-century colonial building decorated with Portuguese tiles - 93% of Angolans are Christian. 6 busses of about 25 people (the vast majority being old while people – just to paint a picture) flooded the sidewalk of a busy Luanda street. Although there were traffic lights, they didn’t appear to be working. Tourist handlers

dancers

stopped traffic so the sea of us could cross to the other side where the church was.

street sculpture

Our group followed behind Carlos Vegas, our guide. Once at the church, we all wandered in, took some photos and streamed out. Chris and I sat inside the small church for a bit of chill time.


Outside the church was a group of women under a tree, singing and worshiping. I’m not sure why exactly they weren’t actually IN the church, but if I were them, I’d have been outside too – inside was hotter, outside was pleasant, maybe the reason is as simple as that. We’ve seen groups of women in other African places, kind of doing the same thing.


Almost the most interesting thing at the church were a group of 4 shoe-shining 10-year-old boys. They weren’t allowed into the church grounds, so they weren’t

bank of Angola

at all a bother, but were pretty interested in the gaggle of us from the other side of an iron fence.
monument to the fallen


Driving through Luanda, we saw the modern and renovated colonial buildings – a sign, we are told, of the city’s revival, due to Angola’s oil and diamond resources. Along our drive we see slums, in one specific area of the beach. Carlos tells us that these people are being moved to make way for hotels. I can see why right along the beach, but the people…


Carlos and his endless info
Luanda’s San Miguel Fort is our next stop. Here we get a bit off track…to say the least. Carlos seems to know his stuff, isn’t just winging it. However, he gave more details than anyone would need and can’t say zip-it to Mr. Chatterbox who thinks this is his own private tour asking endless questions. Despite all of this, it
was interesting-ish.
monument to the end of slavery 


I used the facilities…another place to temper our expectations we are told. I’ve ‘gone’ in all kids of places, all over the world – from squatting in the African bush, to the 2 toilets, one room situation in Brazil, to the palatial Japanese thrones. This was a new
experience for me. 3 toilets, 3 stalls, 1 stall door…very odd. I found the one with a door (no lock) had to hold it shut, then went to the sink where another woman was on the toilet…ah, sorry…didn’t see ya there!


The rest of the tour was on the bus save for one really quick on and off for pics of the rocket-like Agostinho Neto Mausoleum, for Angola’s first president.

dancers

1975-2002 civil war monument

We drove past the beach area with beach clubs, restaurants, and bars. I’m sure
this is a happening spot later on. We were there around 10AM, not so much for bar action in the morning.


Agostinho Neto Mausoleum
We had a motorcycle police escort the entire morning. This wasn’t as much for security as it was to block traffic for us. I wonder how stuck in traffic we would have been otherwise. The traffic wasn’t too
bad at all. We needed an escort in Mayotte!

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